Çesme-Phournoi-Patmos-Samos-Çesme
7 days Luxury Yacht Charter Experience
This trip can be done easily in a week. If you already have done the arrival check-in, shopping, etc. at an early stage, it makes sense to leave the marina on the same day and to traverse these 15 nm in a beautiful close hauled course to Emporio, an anchorage with taverns in the village on the Greek island of Chios. For this trip you need roundly 3 hours.
Those of you who are not in a hurry on the arrival day, can start from Çesme to Phournoi at the next day. The north-westerly wind guarantees good advancement.
Phournoi
Chapter 1
Phournoi is an archipelago in about 35 nautical miles south of Alacati between the Greek islands Ikaria and Samos. This group of islands is not visited by many yachts and is therefore an attractive destination. The locals mostly live from fishing. There is virtually no tourism. There is only a small port but some anchorages:
Chrisomilia 37 ° 37.4 N 26 ° 30.0 E
A bay below the village with gravel bottom. You can drop anchor about 50m to 10m in front of the pier on a sandy bottom. Then bring the yacht with a land line about 3 - 4m in front of it. With strong N-westerly winds, the bay is not recommended due to heavy surge.
Main-port Campos
Passage through the narrow channel between the islets and Phournoi is not possible. Approach into the harbour is from the north. At night stay in the white sector of the lighthouse (not recommended). Try to get a place at the quay among the fishermen on the W-E extending pier. A pretty village with several taverns on the waterfront.
Kambi
With strong N – Winds better shelter than in Campos. Anchor in 6 - 7 m on a sandy bottom in front of the T - jetty off the tavern with a line to the rings at the pier. Violent gusts may occur.
Patmos
Chapter 2
Patmos is a mountainous island with some beautiful bays north and south of the capital Scale Patmou on the east side of the "wasp waist" of the island. In prehistoric times the island was inhabited by the Carians, and later by the Dorians and Ionians. It is reported that Orestes took refuge here after murdering his mother. It should also has existed here an acropolis and the temples of Apollo and Dionysus. The patron goddess of Patmos was Artemis, whose temple is said to have been located at the Chora, built on the ruins of the Basilica of St. John the Theologian, who had the revelation of the apocalypse in 96 AD in a cave. 1000 years later the monastery of St. Christodoulos was built here, the modern landmark of Patmos.
Scale Patmou, Main Harbor 37° 19.6 'N, 26° 33.7'E (Anst.)
You can enter day and night. The islets and reefs can be seen easily in daytime. At night-time, you stay in the white sectors of the lighthouse. Proceed to the Bower Yacht-quay. Put a lot of chain because of side gusts.
Patmos is Port of Entry where you can do the clearance if you have not already done so. Good shopping and many facilities as well as taverns and cafes.
Anchor-Bays north of Scale Patmou
1. Ormos Aspris
Anchor in 5 to 7m on sandy bottom off the beach
2. Ormos Melogi
Anchor in 8 - 10m on weed and sand in the middle of the bay. Tavernas on the beach
3. Ormos Agria Livadia
Drop anchor in 5 - 7m; good holding;
When leaving the bay, stay properly centered at the northern exit to avoid any problems.
4. Ormos Campos
Anchor in the N part of the bay in 4-5 m on coarse sand. Tavernas on the beach.
Anchor-Bay south of Scale Patmou:
Ormos Grikou 37° 17.9'N, 26° 34,2' E
The bay provides good shelter; the passage between the small island and Patmos is straightforward.
Patmos is worth a trip, both in cultural and culinary points of view as well as sporting
activities. The island offers interesting activities for all ages and tastes.
Arki / Lipsi
Chapter 3
On the way to the next day's destination Agathonisi, only 17sm, the Arki/Lipsi – Archipelago 6 nm east of Patmos offers some cruising between the islands, swimming in one of the bays or mooring in the port of Lipsi for lunch.
Bays on Arki
1. Porto Stretto 37 ° 22.5 'N 26 ° 44,4' E
Clear turquoise water; the best place in the "East Bay" on 10m free swinging.
2. Maratho Island 37 ° 21.8 'N 26 ° 44.0' E
The channel from the south has to be navigated carefully. Be careful E and NW of the islet because of reefs. Keep closer to Maratho. There are mooring-buoys laid out from the taverns (VHF Ch 12). Difficult anchorage because of water depth.
Bay on Lipsi: Lira - Reede 37° 16,5'N 26° 46.2'E
1. Anchorage west of the island Lira
In the northern part of the bay west of Lira in 5 - 7m free swinging on sand.
2. Anchor Bay, north of Lira in 6m free swinging on sand;
Taverns on the beach.
3. NE of Lira in 5 - 7m free swinging on sand.
Lipsi Harbor 37 ° 17,5 'N 26 ° 44.9' E
You can enter day and night; pretty place; taverns and cafes lining the waterfront
Mooring:
At the concrete west of the ferry terminal
At the yacht-pier on both sides
Good facilities, electricity and water at the pier, gas station
Agathonisi
Chapter 4
Just 10 miles east of Lipsi, or 17 miles east of Patmos the island of Agathonisi, former name Gaidaros is situated. The "main port", Ag. Georgiou, 36°26.8'N, 26°57,6’ E, Fl 2s 4M is an ideal place to stay. Also because of the generosity of the locals (about 70), the cleanliness in the village and in the taverns, the small island is often visited by yachts.
One can go into the side-bays of the main bay of Ag. Georgiou or anchor in front of the village but also at the pier alongside. The front section of the pier (yellow) is reserved to the boat of the Coast Guard. Even if the place should be free, you should not moor there; the patrol boats can arrive also in the middle of the night, then you must move.
The next day, you sail further in north-east direction to the "Small Samos-Strait" (Kusadasi Strait); the Greek island of Samos on the port side, the Turkish mainland to starboard. The small Turkish island "Bayrak - Adasi" carries a lighthouse and can be easily passed on both sides.
Samos
Chapter 5
Samos is clearly identified from a distance because of the high mountains. On the west coast (Phournoi-strait) and off the south coast violent gusts may occur. If you are coming from the north and heading for the west of Samos, reef the sails in time. Even in previously calm weather there can blow strong gusts from the mountains. It is recommended to continue only with the Genoa, as the wind can also move from N to NE and NW.
This wind reaches 20nm SE till Agathonisi and creates the related sea. Coming from the south, I recommend the Kusadasi-Strait between Samos and the Turkish mainland, as the heavy northerly winds make the Phournoi-Strait almost impassable. In the Kusadasi-Strait also strong gusts may occur, but without big swell.
In the northern part of the Kusadasi-Gulf is usually little wind. Off the NE-cape of Samos, it usually blows from the west, so that a close-hauled course to Cape Doganbey should be possible. If you want to head for the new Marina of Sigacik (opening April 2010) you can tack the last couple of miles or travel under power, because in the Sigacik Gulf only small waves are building up.
If you want to go directly from Doganbey to Alacati, you cross the Sigacik Gulf in relatively flat sea usually in a close reach to Cape Teke Burnu. For the remaining 12 nm the course will be mostly against the wind. Heavy gusts can come down from the mountain ridges but close to the shore the waves will be small so that you can tack or motor easily up to Alacati.
On this way, between Samos and Çesme, there are a lot of attractive stop-over possibilities both at Samos-coast and at the Turkish coast.
About 15 nautical miles northeast of Agathonisi located on the southeast coast of Samos
Pithagoreion 37° 41.3'N 26° 57,2'E, Port of Entry
Pithagoreion is named after the famous mathematician Pythagoras, who lived here. The port is absolutely safe. Drop the anchor in 3-4 meters and go stern to the quay. Good shopping options and numerous cafes and restaurants along the waterfront.
Alternative: Anchor off the beach east of the E-pier in 4 m on a sandy bottom.
Just east of Pithagoreion
Samos Marina 37° 41.3’N 26° 57,2'E
Approaching to Samos Marina is easy. You can head for the windmills. They lead you directly into the marina.
Moorings and facilities of a modern Marina (VHF 73).
Anchor Bay Posidonion 37° 42.4'N 27° 02.9'E
Approx. 5 nm further east the beautiful and safe bay of Posidonion is located on the southeast corner of Samos. When entering, keep a "good distance" from the SW point of the cove, as there are underwater reefs. Anchor in front of the middle of the beach in 5m.
The bay is famous for its excellent fish restaurant.
Alternative: 0.5 miles east of the Cape in the small bay Sidera opening westward in 6m
Kolpos Mourtias 37° 44.5'N 27° 02.6'E
Huge bay with several beautiful anchorages on the eastern coast of Samos.
1. Ormos Kervelis
Anchoring in 6-8 m; taverns on the beach
2. Kasonisis
Anchoring in the southern part of the channel between the island and Samos in 8m on a sandy bottom. Passage to the north is not possible.
3. Mourtias
Anchor in 5-6 m on sand; turquoise, clear water; road to Vathy, the main town of Samos,
located about 4 nm further west of the north-east cape of Samos.
Vathy 37° 46.7'N, 26° 56.3'E, Port of Entry
Samos port is busy with ferryboats. Accordingly it’s noisy and busy. With northerly winds swell comes into the harbour.
If you do not want to sail to Samos, you can sail to Çesme along the Turkish coast, via Kusadasi, Doganbey, Sigacik and Sarpdere (Nergis).
Kusadasi has a modern marina with all service facilities. From here excursions to historical sites, such as Ephesus, are worth to do. In Sigacik a new marina currently is built, which will open in April 2010.
Doganbey and Nergis I have described in Itinerary 4, Çesme – Kusadasi - Çesme.
Whether you return to Çesme via Samos or sail along the Turkish coast, both are worthwhile routes and the wind and distance are almost identical.
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